Buttonhole-cutting mechanism for sewing-machines



E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE CUTTING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 20. 1920- Patented Dec. 13, 1921.

5 SHEETS-SHEET I IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINIIIIIIII NIM Imm INVENToR m m n w ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE CUTTING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

Patented ne... 13 19m..

APPLICATIUN FILED MAR. 20. 1920. 1,399,731.

WITNESSES:

ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE CUTIING MECHANISIVI FOR SEWING MAC HINEs.

Patented Dec. 13, 1921.

APPLICATION FILED MAR.20. I920. 1,399,731.

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I NVENTOR MM BY/ ATTORNEY E. B. ALLEN. BuTToNHoLE CUTHNG MEcHAmsM FOR SEWING MAGHINES.

t APPLICATION AFILED MAR. 20, 1920.

1,399,731. Patented Da. 13, 1921.

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APPLICATION FILED MAR.20| 1920. 1,399,731, Patented Deo. 13, 1921.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

INvENToR wITNI-:ssEs. f /J m M l ATTORNEY f clamping arms clamping however, is preferably formed with but one feeding cam-groove designed to produce relative traveling or feeding vmovements between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder transversely only of the machine bed and therefore lengthwise of the buttonhole; the stitch-forming mechanism including sewing implements which are preferably disposed eccentrically to the axis of their usual supporting turrets, whereby during the rotation of the stitch-forming mechanisms in stitching an end of the buttonhole slit the sewing implements are shifted crosswise'of the gap and are in proper position for sewing along they other side thereof.

The punchings which fall from the lower die element are receivedl in a trough or passageway whichv opens at its front end into a substantially circular trough or passageway surrounding the turret and having a discharge orifice. A brush carried by the lower cutter-lever serves to push the clippings or punchings into the circular passageway where they are swept around t0 the discharge orifice by a brush mountedon the turret.

A better understanding of the invention may be had from the following detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Figure l is a right 'side elevation of a machine embodying the invention in veal the internal mechanism. Fig. 2 is ya horizontal section through the machine standard at an elevation above the bed and showing the latter as well as the workholder and buttonhole cutting mechanism in plan. Fig. 2a is a detail perspective view of the extremityy of one of the upper workshown in Fig. 2. Fig. 3 is a fragmentary plan view of the lower workelements or work -supporting plates showing the stitching aperture and throatplate clearance aperture with the intervenlng work-supporting surface portion.

Fig. 4 is a left side elevation, partly in section, of the buttonhole cutting mechanism and work-holder in the position which they occupy during the sewing operation. Fig. 5 is a similar view of the parts during the buttonhole cutting operation. Fig. 6 is a detail front elevation of the upper cutting implement and its holder. the front clamping block beingv removed. Fig. 7 is a front elevation, partly in section, of the machine bed and work-holder. F ig. 8 is a plan view of the parts within the front end of the base of the machine adjacent the sewing point.

ig. 9 is a detail view of the cutting mechanism showing the means for taking care of the cuttings. Fig. 10 is a plan view of the machine bed; the work-holder and cross slide-plate being removed. Fig. 11 is a plan y its preferred form; theY frame being shown largely in section to review of the cross slide-plate.

section on the line 12-12, Fig. ing the cross slide-plate and work-supporting plates in position upon the bed. Fig. 13 is a side elevation of a modified form of upper cutting element. Fig. 11 is a section on the line lll-14., Fig. 13. Fig. 15 is a section on the .line 1515, Fig. ,13, and Fig. 16 is a plan View of a gap-buttonhole such as produced by the present machine.

In the preferred embodiment of the i11- vention, as illustrated, the machine frame comprises the hollow rectangular base l from which rises the standard 2 of the bracket-arm 3 terminating in the hollow head 4.

The stitch-forming mechanism of the machine is preferably constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure of my Patent No. 1,162,207, of November 30, 1915, and comprises an upper eye-pointed needle 5 which is carried by the needle-bar G -iournaled in the head t for the usual reciprocating' and axial turning movements. The reciprocating movements are derived from the usual pitman 7 and crank-pin S at the forward end of the needle-bar actuating shaft 9 extending within and lengthwise of the bracket-arm 3. This shaft carries a bevelgear 9a which meshes with a companion gear 10 of twice its size fixed to the upper end of the vertical shaft 11 journaled within the standard 2 and at its lower end carrying a. bevel gear 12 which meshes with the driving gear 13 on the main or sewing shaft 11 journaled within and lengthwise of the hollow base 1.

The needle 5 coperates with the usual lower stitch-forming instrumentalities including the curved needle 15 carried by the usual rotary turret 15a mounted to turn within the curb 1G about a vertical axis coincident with the axis of the needle-bar During the sewing operation the needle-bar and turret receive simultaneous step-hy-step turning movements from the upper and lower sector-gears 17 and 1S. respectively.

hese gears are connected in the usual manner to a vertical shaft 19 to move in unison and are operated from the feed-wheel 20. all as more fully set forth in my said Patent No. 1,162,207, and in my Patent No. 1,346,102 of July 13, 1920.

Supported upon the turret 15 is a post 21 carrying the usual needle-throat or button 22 which is formed with the usual crescentshaped aperture 23 through the extremities of which the upper and lower needles are adapted to pass. Unlike the construetimi disclosed in my said Patent No. 1.162.207, the present support for the needle-throat is not mounted for tilting movement to permit the advance of the buttonhole cutter, but is rigid with the turret at all times.

Fig. 12 is a 10, but showone of the receives only lateral componentsof motion t formed at its forward extremity e spaced notches 26 which are entered by the the headed studs '27 depending the plate 33 serve from the said wheel 20. ln other words, the

present work-holder is moved crosswise only of the bed 1 during the sewing operation. While any suitable type of work-holder may be used, I prefer to employ a worlr-holdei' which, except for certain modifications to be hereinafter described, is constructed sub-` stantially in accordance with the disclosure of my Patent No.` 1,240,642,` of September `18, 1917. Suche worleholder comprises a pair of lower clamping plates 24 which are removably mounted, as usual, upon the cross slide-.plate 25. The cross slide plate is with shanlrs of from the lower work-supporting or clamping plates 24. Suitable spring catches 28 are utilized to retain the studs 27 in their respective notches 26 in the cross slide-plate.

At their rearward ends, the worin-supporting plates 24 are held in operative position upon the cross slideLplate `by means of the conning blocks 29 which are secured to the upper surface of a plate 33 which forms a part of the longitudinal slide-frame 30.

` Referring to llfigs. 2,9 and l() itwill be seen that the longitudinal slidesfrarne 3() comprises the slide-bars 31,431 which are formed with ribs 82, 32, Fig-.9, fitted to corresponding undercut grooves on thebed 1. The bars 31 are connected at their rearward ends by the plate 33 which serves to hold the bars rigidly in parallel relation.

ltigidly secured! within suitable depressions 34 in the bed 1 are theshanks 35 of the forwardly extending arms 36 to which are pivotally secured by screw-pins 37, the lower ends ofthe links 38, 38 inthe apertured upper ends secured by set-screws rearward end the cross slide-plate is thinned" down to form tongues 43, 43, which slide along corresponding transverse undercut grooves at the The usual springs 44, `44 which are carried by the work-supporting plates 24 and bear outwardly against to maintain the rearward ends of the pl" tes 24 in engagement with the stop-blocks 46 carried by the cross slide-plate 25. lilo clamp spreading means are employed. in the present construction.

of which are rigidly" e 39 the cross sliderod `40 the opposite extremities of which entend forward edge ofthe plate 33.1

the abutments 45, 45, on

61, such as The work-supporting plates 24 are formed in their meeting edges 47 with comple1nental notches affordingan elongated aperture 48 extending crosswise of the bed 1 and through the extremities of the cresceut` shaped aperture in the needle-throat. The aperture 48 in the lower clamp-plates has straight and uninterrupted front and rear sides along which the work is firmly clamped by `means of the clamping foot 49. One of the work-clamping plates 24 is formed with an additional aperture 50 which is spaced forwardly of the aperture 48 and receives the needle-throat when the work-holder is shifted to cutting position, as shown in Fig. 5. This latter aperture is separated from the elongated aperture 48 by a tongue 51 which assists in supporting the work against the pressure of the clamping foot 49 and enables the work to be firmly clamped along `the entire front side of the buttonhole-slity stance, carry at their forward ends the pre-- viously mentioned clamping foot 49; the'lat ter being formed with an elongated aperture 55, Fig.` 2, extending crosswise of the bed 'l and adapted to register with the aperture 48 in the work-supporting plates 24. The under surface of the foot 49, being roughened.l operates to securely clamp the worlr against the roughened upper surface adjacent the aperture 48 in the lower clamping plates.

The foot 49 is secured at one end to the forward extremity of` one of the clamping arms 54 by the screw 56 and at its other end carries a screw 57 the shank of which .is

received within the notch 58 at the forward extremity of the other clamping arm and held therein by means of the pivoted latch 59. Upon opening the latch 59,`the foot 49 may be swung about `the screw 56 as a pivot to expose the needle-throat 22 and other parts stationed below said foot. lt is to be understood that the screws 56 and 57 do not fit the apertures in the arms 54 so tightly as to prevent the foot from tilting slightly to accommodate itself to inequalities in the work and exert an even pressure thereon at opposite sides and ends of the buttonholeslit.

lt is understood that the feed-wheel 2O has in its upper surface a cam-groove 60 which operates through the usual lever connection disclosed in my lPatent No. 1,039,241, of September 24, 1912, to impart the necessary step-by-step feeding motion to lZO , preferably the work-holder crosswise of the machine bed 1. vStep-by-step rotary motion is imparted to the feed-wheel through the usual gear connections 62, Fig. 1, with the stai'- wheel 63 which is driven yby the diametrically opposed pins V64 atV the lower end of the shaft 11, as more fullydisclosed in my said PatentV N o. 1,346,102.

The present machine preferably embodies an auxiliary shaft 65 which performs a sin* gle rotation prior to sewing, and another auxiliary shaft 66 whichperforms a single rotation subsequent to sewing. These shafts and the controlling connections therewith are constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure of mysaid copending application Serial No. 217 ,483; the first mentionedauxiliary shaft 65rwill be recognized as the usual cutter shaft and is controlled by means of the usual driving` and driven disks 67 and v68 and interposed clutch device 69 with clutch-controlling levell 70 pivoted on the machine frame at 71 for movement toward and away from the clutch device.v 69. l j

The cutter-shaft 65 carriesl the usual cams 72 and 73 which coperate, respectively, with the rearward ends of the cutter-levers 74 and- 75 to rockthe latter about their common fulcrum 76 in the traveling ful- Crum-block Y7 7 j mounted to slide longitudinally of the bed 1 in thejusual ways 78 and receiving its traveling movement from the link 79 'and usual cuttor-advancing and retracting cam 8O-Vonrthe cutter-shaft 65, all as disclosed in my Patent No. 1,048,786

-of December 31, 1912.

.The upper cutter-lever is formed at its Fig'. 4,.wh1eh the fulcrum-pin Y76 for said lever. Fitted against this seat is the correspondingly curved thin- V blade 82, the upper end of which is squared offv to; abut against the shoulder 83 at the upper end of the seat 81. The bladef82 is clamped upon the seat 8l by means ,of the curved clamping .block 84 and screw 85 which passes through an enlarged aperture 86 inthe blade 82 and permits sidewiseadjustment of said blade to insure that the buttonhole slit willY be f cut in a position such Vthat one end of said slit is in exact registry vwith the curved needle on its first ascent.

The blade 82 is adapted to act as apunch in coperation with A like aperture 88 for reception of thelower end of the blade 82 and adjustably secured upon the forward extremity of the lower cutter-lever byfmeans of the screws'. 89, the Shanks of. which pass through enlarged apertures 90, F ig. 8, in the die 87. By virtue of the 'adjustments above described the cutter and die may be accurately registered to cut the buttonhole-slit or gap centrally the die 87'having a slitV of the stitched pattern produced by the stitch-forming mechanism.

In the modified forni of cutter illustrated inlfigs. 13, 14 and 15, the upper cutter lever 74 is formed with a curved seat 81 which, like the seat 81, is concentric with the fulcrum of its supporting lever. The curved blade 82 is clamped against the seat 81 by means of a clamping block 84 and screw "which passes through enlarged apertures 86, 86, in the block and cutterblade. The lever 74 supports a curved block 91 which is clamped to the surface 81 by means of the screw 92 which passes through the slot V93 in said iloz'k. permitting adjustment of the block lengthwise of the surface 81 to bring the shoulder 88 at the front or lower edge of said block into abutting relation with the squared oif rearward end of the cutter-blade 8&1. Then the blade 82 is replaced after having been removed for sharpening it may be :uljusted to enter the die- 87 the correct distance, after which the abutment block 91 is adjusted so as to engage and back up the upper end of the blade 82. The blade 82being nothingmore than a liat metal strip of uniform cross-sectional dimensions throughout its length, curved flatwise to the proper radius, is easily made up fninn strip stock and attached to the upper cutter-lever- As will be observed in Fig. 5, the cutters are advanced and closed to cut the buttonhole in a position displaced rearwardly from -stitching position which in this figure is represented by the needle-throat 22.

In order that the work may be presented tothe cutters and returned to stitchingr position, provision is made for shifting the work-holder rearwardly to cutting position, preferably simultaneously with the advance of the cutter-levers.- Secured to the rearward left-hand corner of the longitudinal slide vframe 30 is a post 94 to which is pivoted by the screw-pin 95 the forward end of a link 96 the slotted rear end of which embraces a block 97 mounted upon the screw-pin 98 which is concentric with the cutter-shaft 65. Lengthwise motion is imparted to the link 96 by means of the cam 99 on the cutter-shaft; said cam hava slot 100 which is entered by the follower roll 101 carried by the link 96.

When the work-holder is in stitchingv position, as shown in Fig. 4, the links 38 are in` clined forwardly and upwardly, and the needle-throat 22 is received within the aperture 48 in the lower clamp-plates 24. Upon actuation of the cutter-shaft 65, rearward movement of the longitudinal slide-frame 30 causes the cross slide-rod 40 to be rocked rearwardly about the pivots 37, thereby elevating the cross slide-plate 25 and clampplates 24 as the links 38 move through the vertical position shown in dotted lines in of the usual clamp-closing lever 102 which vents interference betweenthese parts. lt

is, of course, understood that there is suflcient play between the rearward edges of the cross slide and work-supporting plates and their retaining means, to permit of the upward tilting movement above described.

. lThe worloclamp may be closed by means is fulcrumed on the standard 2 at 103 and is actuated by means of the clamp-closing cam 104 on the" cutter-shaft 65. At its forward end, the clamp-closing lever 102 is adapted to engage and depress the arm 105 carried by one of the usual alined shaft sections 106 of work-holders of the present type which, as is well knowmembody theofl'- y set fork and pin connection 107 to cause the shaft sections 106 to turn in unison in closing and opening the clamp.`

The machine is provided with the stopmotion s ofv well known construction and with the usual controlling mechanism for v throwing the stop-motion to running posi stop the tion as the shaft 65 is completing its single rotation. rlhe machine is also provided with i mechanism for starting the second auxiliary shaft 66 when the stop-motion operates to machine after the sewing is comrllhese various devices are conpieted.

substantially in accordance with the structed disclosure of my said Patent No. 1,346,102,

and as they are not lclaimed specifically herein further description thereof is bev lieved to be unnecessary.

llFhe machine is also preferably equipped with `the thread-cutting mechanism disclosed in my copending `application Serial lio. 283,603, filed March 19, 1919, and with the linger-release mechanism for tripping the machine into action as disclosed in my Patent No. 1,334,640, of March 23, 1920. tiuch devices, however, form no part of the present invention.

1n order to taire care of the clippings which are punched from the material by the action of the cutter-blade 82 and die 87, the machine is preferably providedbelow the cutter-levers 75 with a sheet-metal trough 108 having side walls 109 and a rear end wall 110; the trough being open at its front end 111 below which is disposed a circular trough 112 surrounding the rotary turret 15LL of the lower stitch-forming instrumentalities. The circular trough 112 is provided in its bottomwall with a dis` charge orifice 113 below whichis situated the receptacle 114.

Secured to the lower cutter-lever 75 is a brush 115 which extends crosswise of and bears upon the bottomof the trough `109. During the advance of the cutter-levers, this brush operates to push into the circular the die element to be understood that the particular shape trough 112 any clippings which may lodge in the trough 106. Similarly, the rotary turret 15a carries a brush 116 which operates during the turning movement of the turret to sweep the clippings around the trough 112 until they fall through4 the dis charge orifice 113 into the receptacle 114 from which they may be removed from time to time.

A sample of worlr, which the present machine is adapted to do, is shown in Fig. 16, wherein the body fabric a has gap or slit Z) extending substantially parallel to the edge c of the body fabric. The usual overseaming stitches cl cover the raw edges of fabric at the gap y In the operation of the machine, the work is placed beneath the-raised clamping foot 49, with the edge of the work lying crosswise of the bed 1, and the machine is started in the usual manner as by depressing the finger-piece f, which trips the cutter-shaft` into action to perform its customary single rotation and then come to rest. During the rotation of the cutter-shaft., the clamp is closed and the work-holder retracted, the clamp-plates 24 being lifted clear ofthe needle-throat 22. 'lhe cutterdevers are advanced and closed to cut the buttonhole slit, whereupon the work-holder is returned to stitching position whilethe cutter-levers are being i retracted to inoperative position, Fig. 4. n

During the latter part of the single rotation ofthe cutter-shaft 65, the stitch-forniing mechanism is tripped into action and as the stitching proceeds, the feed-wheel 20 operates to shift the work-holder stepby step crosswise of the machine bed. lVhen one side of the buttonhole has been stitched, the work-holder remains motionless while the supporting means for the stitch-forming mechanism partakes of a half rotation in placing the radial stitches about the end of the buttonhole. Upon completion of the second side and end of the buttonhole ythe stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest, the

thread is cut and clamps are opened in any usual or suitable manner.

- While I have shown anddescribed a. machine embodying the invention in its pre-` ferred form, it is to be understood that the present construction is susceptible of material modilication, both in the form and arrangement of the various parts, within the scope of the invention. fis the present improvement cerned more particularly with means for taking care of the punchings discharged by of a buttonhole cutter, it is of such punchings is immaterial. In other words, it` is immaterial whether the buttonhole is a 4round eyelet or whether'it of the straight or eyeletdefined in the claims is con# or an elongated "slit,

tion,

end type, or whether the Ylouttonhole is cut with its longest dimension disposed transversely or longitudinally et the machine bed. In the broader aspects of the invention, it is also iimnaterial whether the buttonhole is cut in or out of stitching position or whether the buttenhole cutter has a stationary or a, traveling fulcrum.

The specifiocharacteristics of the workclamp, stitch-forming and 'feeding mechanisms are also immaterial to the present improvement which, in its broader aspects, will loe readily understood by those skilled y in the art as being useful in connection with any butt-onhole sewing machine employing a buttonhole cutting die element.

Having -thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim'herein is n l. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a buttonholecutter operating to clip out a section of the material inrcutting the buttonhole, a passageway disposed horizontally below said cutter to receive the clippings, and means including-a horizontally movable clipping engaging element for moving the clippings along said passageway.

2. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a buttonhole-cutter including upper and lowerl cutter-elements coacting to clip out a section of the material in cutting the buttonhole, a passageway disposed below said cutter-elements to receive the clippings, and means including a clipping engaging element mounted below said cutter-elements actuated by" said buttonhole cutter for moving the clippings kalong said passagewa 3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a kwork-holder, a buttonhole cutter, means .for relatively moving the work-holder and huttonhole cutter into and out of cutting relaa'passageway disposed below the level of the work-holder for receiving the clippings, and means' for moving the clippings along said passageway during the relative shift of the work-holder and huttonhole cutter. Y

4. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch` formingv mechanism, a buttonhole-cutter,

means for shifting saidcutter towardv said stitch-formingmechanism, a passageway for the clippings Vand means carried b v'an element of said cutter for moving the clippings yalong the passageway kduring the shift of saidV cutter mechanism.

5. `In abuttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitchfforming mechanism, a buttonhole cutter including upper and lower cutter-levers and a travelingy fulcruIn-bloclr, means for shifting. said' cutter toward'the toward the stitch-forming seitensormingmechanismh a passageway for `ting the buttonhole, a passagewiuv the clippings, and a brush carried by said lower lever for movin@V the clippings alongl said passageway.

G. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming n'lechanism, a. buttonhole cutting mechanism including a traveling huttonhole cutter adapted to clip out a section ot the material in cutting the buttonhole, a passageway for the clippings disposed below said cutter, and means carried by said cutter for brushing the clippings out of said passageway.

7. In a. buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, upper and lower stitch-forming instrumentalities, rotary supporting means therefor, huttonhole cutting inechm msm-operating to clip out a section ol the material in cutting` the buttonhole, a .substantially circular passageway having a discharge orifice for the clippings, and means actuated by the supportingr means for the lower rotary stitch-forming instrumentality for moving the clippings along the passageway to the said discharge orifice.

8. In a buttonholc sewing machine, stitcln forming mechanism includingl a rotary turret, buttonhole cutting mechanism operating to clip out a section ol the material in cntextending around the turret for reception et thc clippings and having a discharge orifice, and means for moving the clippings along said passageway to said discharge orifice.

9. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, .stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder, means for relatively movingy the stitch-orming mechanism and work'- holder 'to sew around a buttouhole`v buttonhole cutting mechanism including an upper punch element and a lower apertured die element adapted to be entered by said punch element. means for moving the buttonhole cutting elements toward and a'way from the stitch-forming mechanisml` and a iliassagcway below the work-holder for reccivin the punchings from the die element.

l0. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism. a worleholder, means for relatively movi n n' the stitch-forming mechanism and worlholder to sew arcund huttonholc. hutton hole cutting mechanism including :in upper punch element and a lower apcrtured die element adapted to be entered by said punch element, means for moving the hnttonhole cutting elements toward and away lrcui the stitch-forming mechanism. a receptacle helow the work-holder for the pun"hin.frs. and a passageway for receiving the punchings from the die element and leading them to said receptacle.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

EDIARD B. ALLEN.

lili 

